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1. Incubation timeline & hatch-date calculator
Pick a species and the day you set the eggs (day 0) to get hatch day, lockdown day, candling dates, and every milestone in between.
2. Incubator temperature & humidity planner
Optimal ranges per species — compare dry-hatch vs wet-hatch humidity and still-air vs forced-air (fan) temperatures.
3. Candling schedule
What to look for on day 7, day 14, and at lockdown. Tick each check off as you go.
4. Lockdown countdown
Days remaining until you stop turning (lockdown) and until hatch day, from today.
5. Hatch-rate estimator
Eggs set × fertility % × hatch-of-fertile % → expected chicks.
6. Brooder planner
Floor space and heat per week for your hatchlings — chicks or ducklings.
Egg incubation chart by species
Reference values compiled from university extension and retailer guides — always follow your incubator manufacturer's manual.
| Species | Incubation | Temp (forced-air) | Temp (still-air) | RH setter | RH lockdown | Lockdown day |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chicken | 21 days | 99.5°F / 37.5°C | 101.5°F / 38.6°C | 45–55% | 65–75% | 18 |
| Duck | 28 days | 99.5°F / 37.5°C | 101.5°F / 38.6°C | 55–60% | 65–75% | 25 |
| Muscovy duck | 35 days | 99.5°F / 37.5°C | 101.5°F / 38.6°C | 55–60% | 65–75% | 32 |
| Quail (Coturnix) | 18 days | 99.5°F / 37.5°C | 101.5°F / 38.6°C | 45–50% | 60–70% | 15 |
| Turkey | 28 days | 99.5°F / 37.5°C | 101.5°F / 38.6°C | 55–60% | 65–75% | 25 |
| Goose | 30 days | 99.5°F / 37.5°C | 101.5°F / 38.6°C | 60–65% | 70–75% | 27 |
Dry-hatch alternative for the setter phase: 30–40% RH (chicken), 40–45% (duck/Muscovy/turkey), 30–35% (quail), 45–50% (goose) — then boost to the lockdown band above. Sources: MSU Extension incubation table (extension.msstate.edu); IncubatorWarehouse species chart; The Incubator Shop incubation guides; Farmkeep candling guide.
Methodology & data sources
- Incubation days, lockdown days, temperatures, humidity bands: compiled from the Mississippi State University Extension incubation table (extension.msstate.edu), the IncubatorWarehouse temperature/humidity chart, and The Incubator Shop (theincubatorshop.co.uk) species guides. Where sources differ by a day or a few percent RH, the table uses the consensus band.
- Lockdown rule: stop turning 3 days before hatch (day 18 of 21 for chicken) — standard across extension and retailer guides.
- Candling days (7 / 14 / lockdown): day-7 vein check and day-14 growth check per the Farmkeep candling guide; final check folded into lockdown.
- Brooder temperatures (90–95°F week 1, −5°F/week): standard university extension brooding guidance; space minimums (~0.5/0.75/1.0 sq ft per chick by age, 1.5× for ducklings) likewise.
- Hatch-rate math: eggs × fertility % × hatch-of-fertile %; typical ranges (75–85% home-laid, 50–70% shipped) as reported in extension guides — planning estimates, never guarantees.
Egg incubation questions, answered
How long do chicken eggs take to hatch in an incubator?
Chicken eggs hatch in 21 days at 99.5°F (37.5°C) forced-air. Common incubation periods: duck 28 days, Muscovy duck 35 days, quail (Coturnix) 18 days, turkey 28 days, goose 30 days. Day 0 is the day you set the eggs; hatch day = set date + incubation days. Figures compiled from the MSU Extension incubation table and the IncubatorWarehouse species chart.
What temperature should an incubator be for chicken eggs?
The standard set point is 99.5°F (37.5°C) for a forced-air (fan) incubator, measured anywhere inside. For a still-air incubator (no fan), run 101–102°F (38.3–38.9°C) measured at the top of the eggs, because heat stratifies without a fan. Brief deviations matter less than the average over the whole 21 days — but sustained temps above ~103°F or below ~96°F reduce hatchability. Always confirm against your incubator manufacturer's manual.
What humidity should I use for hatching chicken eggs?
A common wet-hatch profile is 45–55% relative humidity for days 1–18, then 65–75% RH at lockdown (day 18). The alternative dry-hatch method runs 30–40% RH for days 1–18 and still boosts to 65–75% at lockdown. The real target is egg weight loss of roughly 13–15% by lockdown — weigh a sample of eggs or candle air-cell growth to verify, and adjust humidity to hit that loss rather than chasing a single number.
Dry hatch vs wet hatch — which is better?
Neither is universally better; it depends on your ambient humidity. Dry hatch (30–40% RH, no added water) suits humid climates or naturally humid homes, because eggs must still lose ~13–15% of their weight as moisture. Wet hatch (45–55% RH) suits dry climates, air-conditioned rooms, or winter hatching where ambient humidity is low. Both methods raise humidity to 65–75% at lockdown so membranes stay soft while chicks pip. If your air cells look too small at day 14, lower humidity; too large, raise it.
Still-air vs forced-air incubator — what is the difference?
A forced-air incubator has a fan that circulates heat evenly, so one set point — 99.5°F (37.5°C) — works throughout. A still-air incubator has no fan, so warm air pools at the top: set 101–102°F measured at the top of the eggs. Forced-air models generally give more even hatches and are easier for beginners; still-air models work fine but need careful thermometer placement and more frequent monitoring.
What day do you stop turning chicken eggs (lockdown)?
Stop turning chicken eggs on day 18 — three days before the day-21 hatch. The rule of thumb across species is lockdown = hatch day minus 3: duck and turkey day 25, goose day 27, Muscovy day 32, quail day 15. At lockdown, stop the turner, raise humidity to 65–75% RH, lay eggs flat or move them to a hatcher basket, and do not open the incubator until the hatch is finished.
How do you candle eggs — what should I see on day 7, 14, and 18?
Candle in a dark room with a bright focused light against the large end. Day 7: look for a spiderweb of veins radiating from a dark embryo spot — clear eggs (infertile) and blood rings (early death) can be removed. Day 14: the egg should be mostly dark with a growing air cell at the blunt end; you may see movement. Day 18 (lockdown): the air cell should be drawn down on one side and the egg nearly full; do a final check as you move eggs to the hatcher. Handle eggs gently and keep them out of the incubator only briefly.
How do I calculate the hatch date from the set date?
Add the species incubation period to the set date: chicken set on January 1 hatches January 22 (21 days later). Use the incubation timeline tab above — pick the species and set date to get the hatch date, lockdown date, candling dates, and a day-by-day milestone list, plus a downloadable calendar (.ics) reminder for lockdown and hatch day.
What is the right duck egg incubator temperature and humidity?
For duck egg incubation of mallard-derived breeds (Pekin, Khaki Campbell, Cayuga, Indian Runner), the standard duck egg incubator temperature is 99.5°F (37.5°C) forced-air for 28 days, with 55–60% RH for days 1–25 and 65–75% RH at lockdown (day 25). Muscovy eggs take 35 days with lockdown on day 32. Many duck-egg guides recommend cooling the eggs 10–15 minutes per day from about day 10 and misting lightly with lukewarm water — a practice borrowed from how broody ducks leave the nest daily.
How long do quail, turkey, and goose eggs take to hatch?
Quail (Coturnix): 18 days — lockdown day 15, humidity 45–50% then 60–70%. Turkey: 28 days — lockdown day 25, same 55–60% → 65–75% profile as duck. Goose: 30 days — lockdown day 27, humidity 60–65% then 70–75%, with cooling and light misting commonly recommended from ~day 10. All at 99.5°F (37.5°C) forced-air. Values compiled from the MSU Extension incubation table and IncubatorWarehouse species chart.
How long can eggs be stored before incubating?
Store hatching eggs up to 7 days (10 for goose) at 55–65°F (13–18°C) and ~75% humidity, pointed end down, tilted or turned daily. Hatchability drops noticeably after 7–10 days and older eggs hatch later and less evenly. Do not refrigerate, do not wash (it removes the protective bloom), and let cold-stored eggs warm gradually to room temperature before setting to avoid condensation.
How do you calculate expected hatch rate?
Multiply: eggs set × fertility % × hatch-of-fertile %. Example: 24 eggs at 85% fertility and 80% hatch of fertiles ≈ 16 chicks. Typical ranges reported in extension guides: home-laid fertile eggs often hatch 75–85% of fertiles; shipped eggs commonly hatch 50–70% because of detached air cells and transit damage. The hatch-rate tab above runs this math for you.
What temperature should a brooder be for baby chicks?
Start at 90–95°F (32–35°C) under the heat source for week 1, then drop about 5°F per week: 85–90 week 2, 80–85 week 3, 75–80 week 4, 70–75 week 5, and ~70°F by week 6 when chicks are feathered. Heat only one end of the brooder so chicks can self-regulate — huddling under the lamp means too cold, panting and spreading out means too hot. Ducklings follow the same schedule but feather faster.
How much brooder space does each chick need?
For space per chick, plan roughly 0.5 sq ft per chick for weeks 1–2, 0.75 sq ft for weeks 3–4, and 1 sq ft from week 5 until they move to the coop — these are minimums from university extension brooding guides, and more space is always better. Ducklings need about 1.5× that space because they grow faster and are messier with water. The brooder planner tab above sizes space and heat lamps (one 250 W lamp per ~25 chicks) for your flock.
Any tips for incubating eggs in hot climates (Australia, India, Texas) or cool ones (UK, Canada)?
In hot climates (Australia, India, the US South), room temperatures above ~80°F make incubators overshoot — run the incubator in the coolest room and verify with a calibrated thermometer, since built-in displays can read 1–2° off. Store hatching eggs below 65°F before setting. In cool climates (UK, Canada), cold eggs warm slowly and power outages are the main risk — a UPS or generator keeps the fan and heater alive, and eggs tolerate short cooling better than overheating. Everywhere: keep the incubator out of direct sun and away from drafts.
Can I hatch two species — or a staggered hatch — in one incubator?
You can, but lockdown conflicts make it tricky: species with different hatch days need different stop-turning days and humidity boosts. Common workarounds: use a separate hatcher (even a cheap still-air unit) for lockdown while the main unit keeps turning, or set batches so their lockdown days coincide. Mark every egg with species and set date in pencil, and never open the incubator once any batch has pipped.