Gravity converter
Brix is treated as equal to Plato here (standard brewing approximation). A refractometer reads inaccurately once alcohol is present — use a hydrometer for final gravity.
Batch planner — honey to gravity
The age-old "honey to water" question for mead is really a gravity question: pick your target OG above and the planner converts it to an exact honey weight and honey-to-water ratio.
Methodology & sources
Every number in this lab is cited so you can verify it:
- Honey yield: ~35 gravity points per lb per gallon of must (honey ≈ 79.6% fermentable sugar; homebrewtalk.com meadmaking discussions cite ~36 ppg).
- ABV formulas: standard (OG−FG)×131.25; alternate 76.08×(OG−FG)/(1.775−OG)×(FG/0.794); high-gravity via the Balling real-extract method (RE = 0.1808×OE + 0.8192×AE).
- YAN tiers by OG: 150/200/250/300/350 ppm across the bands 1.060–1.075 / 1.076–1.095 / 1.096–1.115 / 1.116–1.130 / above 1.130 — table via missvickie.com/mead-nutrient-calculator.
- TOSNA 2.0: classic protocol via meadmakr.com BatchBuildr — Fermaid-O counted at 40 mg measurable YAN per gram; schedule 24/48/72 h + 4th dose at the 1/3 sugar break or day 7, whichever comes first.
- TOSNA 3.0 (revised): organic nitrogen counted at ~200 mg YAN equivalents per gram (≈5× the 2.0 dose efficiency) — consistent with meadmaderight\u2019s TOSNA 3.0 calculator and missvickie.com\u2019s outputs (1 gal @ 1.088 → ≈3.8 g total).
- Nutrient YAN per gram: Fermaid-O 200 mg (YAN equivalents), Fermaid-K 100 mg, DAP 210 mg, Go-Ferm 0 (rehydration only) — via missvickie.com; Lallemand data sheets (via bacchus-and-barleycorn) confirm the order of magnitude.
- 1/3 sugar break: SG = 1 + (OG−1)×2/3.
- Go-Ferm: 1.25 g per gram of dry yeast for rehydration.
- Stabilizers: 1/2 tsp potassium sorbate per gallon (≈2.3 g/tsp, weigh advised — beerco.com.au); sulfite target 50 ppm with potassium metabisulfite at 57.6% SO₂; 1 Campden tablet = 0.44 g ≈ 1 tablet per gallon (homebrewtalk.com stabilization guidance).
- Carbonation: residual CO₂ = 3.0378 − 0.050062×T(°F) + 0.00026555×T(°F)² (Henry\u2019s-law fit, Fix 1989, via cellarbench.com); dextrose grams = L × Δvol × 4.0; sucrose ×0.91, honey ×1.30, DME ×1.51, brown sugar ×0.95, maple ×1.45. Mead style volumes via missvickie.com/abvcalculator.org.
- Gravity conversions: °Plato = −463.37 + 668.72×SG − 205.35×SG² (ASBC/Ensminger).
Formulas are planning estimates. Verify critical additions with a scale, a hydrometer, and — for commercial batches — a certified lab.
Frequently asked questions
What does this mead making calculator suite do?
It is an 11-mode mead lab: batch planner (honey per gallon for a target gravity), ABV calculator with three formulas side by side, TOSNA 2.0 / 3.0 and custom staggered-nutrient (SNA) scheduler, nutrient comparison, step-feeding planner, backsweetening calculator, stabilizer dosing, carbonation and priming-sugar calculator, fortification calculator, blending calculator (Pearson’s square), plus calorie, dilution, hydromel and Brix/SG/Plato converters. Everything runs 100% in your browser — no account, no data sent anywhere.
How much honey do I need per gallon of mead?
Honey contributes roughly 35 gravity points per pound per gallon of must, so divide your target gravity points by 35. For a 1-gallon batch at 1.088 OG you need about 2.51 lb (1.14 kg) of honey; a 5-gallon traditional at 1.100 needs about 14.3 lb (6.48 kg); a 1-gallon sack mead at 1.140 needs about 4.0 lb (1.81 kg). Enter any target volume and gravity in the Batch Planner tab above for exact numbers in metric or imperial units, including the honey-to-water ratio and estimated Brix.
How do you calculate the ABV of mead?
Take your original gravity (OG) and final gravity (FG) hydrometer readings. Whether you search for a mead ABV calculator, a honey mead ABV calculator or a mead alcohol percentage calculator, the math is the same. The standard formula is ABV = (OG − FG) × 131.25, so 1.088 down to 1.010 gives about 10.2% ABV. The ABV tab shows three formulas side by side: the standard one, the alternate formula 76.08×(OG−FG)/(1.775−OG)×(FG/0.794), and the Balling real-extract method for high-gravity sack meads above ~8%, where the standard formula under-reads. For a sack mead at 1.140 to 1.030 the three methods give roughly 14.4%, 17.1% and 15.1% — treat high-gravity results as estimates and always verify with a stable hydrometer reading.
What is TOSNA and how does the TOSNA calculator work?
TOSNA (Tailored Organic Staggered Nutrient Addition) is the most widely used mead nutrient protocol. You enter batch size and original gravity; the calculator picks a yeast-assimilable nitrogen (YAN) target from the OG tier table — 150 ppm below 1.076, 200 ppm at 1.076–1.095, 250 ppm at 1.096–1.115, 300 ppm at 1.116–1.130, and 350 ppm above 1.130 (table via missvickie.com) — then converts it to grams of Fermaid-O and splits it into 4 equal doses: at 24, 48 and 72 hours after pitching, plus a final dose at the 1/3 sugar break or day 7, whichever comes first. It also computes Go-Ferm for rehydration at 1.25 g per gram of yeast (2 g yeast per gallon default).
What is the difference between TOSNA 2.0 and TOSNA 3.0?
The classic TOSNA 2.0 (meadmakr.com BatchBuildr) counts only measurable YAN: Fermaid-O supplies about 40 mg of YAN per gram, so a 1-gallon batch at 1.088 OG (200 ppm target) needs about 18.9 g total. The revised TOSNA 3.0 approach (meadmaderight) recognizes that organic nitrogen in Fermaid-O is used far more efficiently and counts roughly 200 mg of YAN equivalents per gram — about 5× less product, or about 3.8 g for the same batch, which matches missvickie.com’s calculator output. This lab computes both side by side so you can compare; the nutrient-comparison tab also shows Fermaid-K (100 mg YAN/g), DAP (210 mg YAN/g) and notes that Go-Ferm is for rehydration only and never counts toward must YAN.
What is the 1/3 sugar break and why does the nutrient schedule use it?
The 1/3 sugar break is the gravity at which one third of the fermentable sugar has been consumed: SG = 1 + (OG − 1) × 2/3. For an OG of 1.120 that is 1.080. Yeast largely stop taking up nutrients past this point, so TOSNA schedules the fourth and final addition at the 1/3 break (or day 7, whichever comes first) and adds nothing after it — late nutrients stay in the mead and cause off-flavours. If your gravity already hit the break by day 3, add the remaining doses together then.
What is step feeding in mead making?
Step feeding means adding honey in stages instead of all up front, which keeps osmotic stress low and helps yeast reach high alcohol levels for sack meads. The Step Feeding tab takes your batch size, honey already added, target ABV and expected final gravity, computes the total honey required, subtracts what is already in, and splits the remainder into equal feeds — for example a 5-gallon batch targeting 14% ABV with 10 lb already pitched needs about 16.0 lb total, so about 2.0 lb per feed across 3 feeds. Add each feed only after fermentation of the previous one is active and gravity is falling.
How do you backsweeten mead and how much honey do you add?
First stabilize (sorbate plus sulfite — see the Stabilizer tab), then sweeten to taste. The backsweetening calculator converts the gap between your current and target gravity into honey: a 5-gallon batch at 1.000 sweetened to 1.015 needs about 2.14 lb of honey, which adds about 0.18 gallon of volume and dilutes ABV by a factor of about 0.965. You can also backsweeten with juice — the same example needs about 2.14 gallons of 1.050 juice. Never backsweeten an unstabilized mead unless you want refermentation; and never bottle a sweet, unstabilized mead, which risks bottle bombs.
How do you stabilize mead with potassium sorbate and Campden tablets?
Stabilize only after fermentation is completely finished and gravity is stable across several days. The standard home dose is 1/2 teaspoon of potassium sorbate per gallon (about 2.3 g per teaspoon — weigh it for accuracy) plus sulfite: 1 Campden tablet per gallon supplies roughly 50–67 ppm of SO2 (tablets are 0.44 g of metabisulfite each). The Stabilizer tab computes both from your batch size and target SO2 ppm — for 5 gallons at 50 ppm that is 2.5 tsp sorbate and about 1.64 g of potassium metabisulfite (≈ 3.7 tablets). Sorbate does not kill yeast and does not stop an active fermentation; it only prevents re-fermentation, which is why it must be paired with sulfite and used on a finished mead. Sulfites are allergens: label finished bottles if you share them.
How much priming sugar do you need to carbonate mead?
Bottle carbonation depends on CO2 already dissolved at your mead’s temperature (residual CO2 = 3.0378 − 0.050062×T + 0.00026555×T² with T in °F) plus sugar for the rest: grams of dextrose = liters × (target volumes − residual volumes) × 4.0. A 5-gallon batch at 68°F carbonated to 2.5 volumes needs about 124 g (4.4 oz) of dextrose, 113 g of table sugar, or 161 g of honey. Typical mead targets: still 0, petillant 1–2, sparkling 2–2.8, champagne-style up to 3+. Never exceed 3 volumes in standard wine bottles — use champagne-rated bottles with wire cages above that, and verify final gravity is completely stable before priming to avoid bottle bombs.
How do you fortify mead to a target ABV?
Add a measured amount of neutral spirit: spirit volume = batch volume × (target ABV − current ABV) / (spirit ABV − target ABV), with all ABVs as fractions. A 5-gallon mead at 12% fortified to 18% with 40% ABV spirit needs about 1.36 gallons of spirit, giving about 6.36 gallons total. The Fortification tab also warns when the target is unreachable (spirit weaker than the target, or target below current ABV). Note: distilling your own spirits at home is illegal in many jurisdictions — use a legally purchased spirit.
How do you blend two meads with Pearson’s square?
Pearson’s square gives the ratio for hitting a target between two components: parts of A = |target − B|, parts of B = |target − A|. To blend a 1.020 mead with a 1.000 mead to 1.010 across 5 gallons, use 2.5 gallons of each. The Blending tab works in gravity points or %ABV; ABV blending is approximately linear and fine for planning, and the same math works for backsweetening-style juice blends.
How many calories are in mead, and what is hydromel?
Mead calories come from alcohol (about 7 kcal per gram) plus residual sugar (about 4 kcal per gram). A 12% ABV mead finishing at 1.010 has roughly 77 kcal per 100 ml, or about 113 kcal in a 5-oz glass — the Calories tab computes it from your ABV and final gravity. Hydromel is a light, session-style mead (typically 3.5–7.5% ABV); the Hydromel tab turns a target ABV into honey needed — for example 5 gallons at 5.5% ABV needs about 6.3 lb of honey — plus the low-gravity 150 ppm YAN nutrient schedule, which suits sparkling session meads.
How do you convert between Brix, specific gravity and Plato?
They are three scales for the same thing: dissolved sugar. Use the converter card: SG = 1 + Plato / (258.6 − 227.1×Plato/258.2), and Brix is treated as equal to Plato for brewing purposes (disclosed approximation). An OG of 1.088 is about 21.1 °Brix. Note that a refractometer reads inaccurately once alcohol is present — its FG reading needs an alcohol correction, so use a hydrometer for final gravity and for verifying stability before bottling.
How do you dilute a mead that is too sweet or too strong?
Add water according to sugar-point conservation: water to add = batch volume × (current points − target points) / target points, where points = (SG − 1) × 1000. Diluting 5 gallons at 1.030 down to 1.020 needs 2.5 gallons of water — the Dilution tab computes it and reminds you that dilution lowers ABV, flavour intensity and body together, so it suits over-sweet or over-oaked meads best. Use clean, chlorine-free water and re-check gravity after mixing.
Is it legal to make mead at home, and what safety warnings apply?
Homebrewing laws vary by country and by state — check your local regulations before brewing. These calculators are planning estimates, not professional advice. Four safety rules: (1) sulfites are allergens — label finished bottles if you share them; (2) sanitize everything that touches the mead; (3) verify final gravity is stable over several days before bottling, and never bottle-carbonate in standard wine bottles above 3 volumes of CO2, to avoid bottle bombs; (4) sorbate plus sulfite only stabilize a finished fermentation — they cannot stop an active one. If any addition is business-critical, verify with a certified lab.